Sacred Peaks and Hidden Valleys: A Journey Through Gannan（甘南）
Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture（甘南藏族自治州） is a hidden gem located in southern Gansu Province, China. Known for its stunning natural beauty and deep Tibetan cultural roots, Gannan offers a unique travel experience that combines spirituality, history, and nature. The region is home to sacred monasteries like Labrang Monastery, one of the most important Tibetan Buddhist centers outside Tibet. Visitors can explore the dramatic stone village of Zhagana, hike through alpine meadows, or wander around the ancient Bajiao City with its rare octagonal layout.
Gannan also features incredible natural landscapes, including grasslands, snow-capped mountains, and river valleys. The Gahai Lake and Luqu grasslands are perfect for witnessing nomadic life and local festivals. For those interested in archaeology, Baishiya Karst Cave offers insight into ancient human history with its Denisovan discoveries. The Milarepa Buddha Pavilion in Hezuo is a spiritual highlight, combining artistic beauty and religious devotion.
With fewer crowds than Tibet or other tourist hotspots, Gannan provides an immersive and peaceful travel experience. Whether you’re interested in photography, trekking, Buddhism, or cultural exchange, Gannan is a destination that offers authenticity, serenity, and a deep connection to Tibetan heritage.
Next, let us take you on a detailed journey through these places：
Zhagana (扎尕那)
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Zhagana, located in Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Gansu Province, is a breathtaking stone village nestled in the Dagu Glacier National Geopark. Surrounded by dramatic limestone cliffs, dense forests, and terraced farmlands, Zhagana means “Stone Box” in Tibetan — an apt name for a place that looks like a natural fortress. It sits at over 3,000 meters above sea level and offers a unique blend of Tibetan culture and natural beauty. Traditional wooden homes are built along the mountain slopes, and the villagers still maintain a simple, pastoral lifestyle.
Visitors can hike to panoramic viewpoints, explore ancient trails, or experience local customs and festivals. The area is also known for its biodiversity and fresh alpine air. Zhagana was once praised by the Austrian explorer Joseph Rock, who called it one of the most beautiful places in the world. Whether you come for photography, trekking, or cultural immersion, Zhagana provides a serene escape from modern life and a glimpse into the harmonious coexistence of humans and nature in the Tibetan highlands.
Labrang Monastery (拉卜楞寺)
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Labrang Monastery, located in Xiahe County of Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, is one of the six great monasteries of the Gelug school of Tibetan Buddhism. Founded in 1709, it serves as an important center for Buddhist study, featuring the largest number of monks outside of Tibet. With its unique blend of Han Chinese, Tibetan, and Indian architectural styles, Labrang boasts golden-roofed halls, prayer wheels, stupas, and long corridors filled with intricate murals. The monastery houses several institutes of learning, where monks study Buddhist philosophy, astronomy, medicine, and more.
Pilgrims and tourists alike walk the 3-kilometer kora path lined with over 2,000 prayer wheels. Every year, especially during the Great Prayer Festival (Monlam), the site draws thousands of visitors who witness elaborate rituals, debates, and sacred mask dances. Labrang is not just a religious sanctuary; it’s a living heritage that reflects the spiritual depth of Tibetan Buddhism. Surrounded by grasslands and mountains, it provides a tranquil atmosphere perfect for reflection, cultural appreciation, and spiritual exploration.
Baishiya Karst Cave (白石崖)
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Baishiya Karst Cave, located on the edge of the Tibetan Plateau near Ganjia Basin in Gansu Province, is a site of both natural beauty and groundbreaking archaeological discovery. The cave is carved into a white limestone cliff, giving it its name “Baishiya,” meaning “White Stone Cliff.” In 2019, scientists discovered a Denisovan jawbone in the cave, marking the first time Denisovan remains were found outside of Siberia. This discovery reshaped our understanding of human evolution and ancient migration routes. Beyond its archaeological significance, the cave is a sacred site for local Tibetan Buddhists.
Monks often visit the cave for meditation and rituals. The surrounding landscape of grasslands, cliffs, and highland meadows offers stunning views and a peaceful atmosphere. Visitors can explore the cave, learn about its ancient past, and enjoy the quiet charm of the Tibetan plateau. Baishiya Karst Cave is a hidden gem that seamlessly combines scientific wonder, spiritual importance, and natural splendor — a destination for both the curious mind and the seeking soul.
Bajiao City (八角城)
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Bajiao City, also known as Bajiaocheng, is a unique and historically significant fortress town located in Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture. As its name suggests, the city features an unusual octagonal layout — “Bajiao” means “eight corners” in Chinese. It was built during the Tang Dynasty and served as a strategic military post and trading hub along the ancient Silk Road. The town was designed with defensive purposes in mind, with eight evenly spaced gates and walls that remain partially intact today. Unlike many ancient cities, Bajiao City retains its original structure, making it an architectural and archaeological treasure.
Though no longer a bustling city, the site preserves the quiet charm of its past, with ancient walls, earthen houses, and surrounding pastoral scenery. Visitors can walk along the perimeter, view the historic remnants, and imagine the once-thriving marketplace filled with traders, soldiers, and pilgrims. Bajiao City is a fascinating stop for history buffs, photographers, and anyone interested in ancient urban planning and the multicultural exchanges of old China.
Milarepa Buddha Pavilion (米拉日巴佛阁)
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The Milarepa Buddha Pavilion is a striking religious landmark located in Hezuo, Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture. It is dedicated to Milarepa, one of Tibet’s most beloved yogis and spiritual masters, known for his ascetic life and poetic teachings. The pavilion stands over nine stories tall, making it one of the tallest Tibetan-style wooden buildings in China. Inside, it houses a massive statue of Milarepa, along with vibrant murals, thangka paintings, and sacred scriptures. Built with intricate woodwork and topped with golden roofs, the pavilion reflects a deep fusion of artistry and devotion.
Pilgrims climb its spiraling staircases, chanting mantras and spinning prayer wheels as they ascend toward the top. Each level provides not only spiritual insight but also panoramic views of Hezuo town and the surrounding grasslands. The structure serves as a major pilgrimage destination and cultural attraction, representing the enduring influence of Tibetan Buddhism in the region. Visiting the Milarepa Buddha Pavilion offers a spiritual journey and a cultural experience wrapped in sacred architecture and mountain tranquility.
Gannan’s Food Culture
Gannan’s cuisine reflects its Tibetan heritage, high-altitude environment, and pastoral lifestyle. Locals rely heavily on yak meat, dairy products, barley, and potatoes. Food is hearty, nutritious, and ideal for cold weather. Butter tea, tsampa (roasted barley flour), and beef or yak stew are staples. Due to religious traditions, pork is rarely consumed, and meals are often simple but flavorful. Tibetan barley wine and yak yogurt are common in festivals and daily life. Influenced by both Tibetan and Hui Muslim cultures, Gannan’s food offers a unique blend of spice, richness, and rustic warmth — perfect for travelers seeking authentic regional flavors.
Yak Meat Hotpot (牦牛肉火锅)
Yak meat hotpot is a must-try dish when visiting Gannan. It features tender slices of yak meat simmered in a rich, aromatic broth made with herbs, garlic, and local spices. The meat is high in protein and has a slightly gamey but satisfying flavor. Vegetables like potatoes, mushrooms, and cabbage are added to balance the richness. Locals often enjoy it with dipping sauces made from chili, sesame, and soy. This hotpot is not just a meal—it’s a communal experience, especially popular in winter. It warms both body and soul while offering a delicious taste of Tibetan pastoral life.
Tsampa (糌粑)
Tsampa is a traditional Tibetan staple made from roasted barley flour, often mixed with butter tea or yogurt to form a dough. It’s nutritious, easy to carry, and ideal for high-altitude energy. In Gannan, tsampa is part of daily life, symbolizing blessings and sustenance. Locals roll it into small balls and eat it by hand. Though simple in appearance, tsampa represents Tibetan resilience and connection to the land. Visitors are often offered tsampa during ceremonies and meals as a sign of hospitality. Trying tsampa allows you to experience a deep-rooted culinary tradition that has nourished people for centuries.
Tibetan Butter Tea (酥油茶)
Tibetan butter tea, known as “po cha,” is a distinctive drink made by churning black tea with yak butter and salt. In Gannan, it’s consumed daily to combat the cold and dry climate. The tea is creamy, salty, and slightly oily—an acquired taste for many visitors, but deeply satisfying once appreciated. It provides warmth and energy, especially for nomadic lifestyles. Served in small bowls, it often accompanies meals or social gatherings. Offering butter tea is a gesture of welcome and respect. Drinking it in a traditional home or monastery gives travelers an authentic taste of local Tibetan hospitality.
Hand-Pulled Mutton Noodles (手拉羊肉面)
This dish combines Tibetan and Hui Muslim culinary influences. Hand-pulled wheat noodles are boiled and served with tender chunks of mutton in a savory broth, seasoned with garlic, chili, and fresh herbs. The noodles are chewy and comforting, while the mutton adds richness and warmth. Commonly found in markets and roadside eateries across Gannan, this noodle soup is perfect for travelers seeking something hearty and flavorful. It’s often served with pickled radishes or a splash of vinegar for balance. This humble yet satisfying dish showcases the region’s blend of cultures and is a favorite among locals and visitors alike.
Best Seasons to Travel to Gannan
The best time to visit Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture is from June to October, when the weather is mild, the grasslands are lush, and many local festivals take place. July and August are especially vibrant, with green meadows, blooming wildflowers, and traditional horse-racing festivals offering a glimpse into Tibetan nomadic culture. During these months, the skies are generally clear, making it ideal for photography and outdoor adventures.
However, travelers should be aware of Gannan’s high elevation — many areas are above 3,000 meters, which may cause altitude sickness. It’s important to rest upon arrival, stay hydrated, and avoid intense physical activity on the first day. Sun protection is essential due to strong UV rays at high altitude — bring sunglasses, sunscreen, and a hat.
Weather can change quickly, so pack layers, including a warm jacket, even in summer. From November to May, the region is cold and less accessible due to snow, though some travelers enjoy the off-season solitude.
Respect local Tibetan customs and religious practices. Always ask permission before photographing people or inside monasteries. Gannan is a remote yet welcoming destination, where thoughtful preparation ensures a rich and unforgettable travel experience.
Transportation in Gannan
Transportation in Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture can be challenging due to its remote, mountainous terrain and limited public transport options. While major towns like Xiahe, Hezuo, and Luqu are accessible by long-distance buses from Lanzhou, getting to more scenic or rural spots such as Zhagana, Baishiya Cave, or Gahai Lake often requires private transport. Roads in Gannan are generally well-maintained, but weather conditions—especially during the rainy season or winter—can cause delays or rough driving.
For greater freedom and convenience, many travelers choose to rent a car from companies like Shenzhou Zuche (神州租车). Shenzhou offers a wide range of vehicles, from compact sedans to SUVs, which are better suited for highland roads. You can rent a car in Lanzhou or Xining and drive to Gannan, allowing flexible stops and off-the-beaten-path exploration. Most rentals require a valid Chinese driver’s license, though international travelers can arrange a temporary driving permit in advance.
Using a rental car also gives you more time to enjoy scenic drives through grasslands, villages, and temples without relying on fixed schedules. It’s one of the best ways to experience the natural beauty and cultural richness of Gannan at your own pace.
A 3-day Gannan Self-drive Itinerary
Day 1: Lanzhou（兰州） → Xiahe（夏河） (Labrang Monastery拉卜楞寺) → Hezuo（合作市）
Start your journey in Lanzhou by picking up a rental car from Shenzhou Zuche. Drive to Xiahe County, which takes about 4 hours. Upon arrival, visit the famous Labrang Monastery（拉卜楞寺）, one of the most important centers of Tibetan Buddhism outside Tibet. Walk along the monastery’s prayer wheels corridor, and observe monks in daily life. For lunch, try traditional Tibetan dishes such as yak meat, tsampa, and butter tea. In the afternoon, continue driving to Hezuo City (about 1 hour). There, visit the Milarepa Buddha Pavilion（米拉日巴佛阁）, the only temple in the world named after the Tibetan yogi Milarepa. Stay overnight in Hezuo, ideally in a Tibetan-style guesthouse.
Day 2: Hezuo（合作市） → Zhuoni（卓尼县） → Zhagana（扎尕那）
After breakfast, head south toward Zhuoni County (about 2 hours). Enjoy scenic mountain roads and small Tibetan villages along the way. Continue driving to Zhagana, a remote stone village nestled in a natural amphitheater surrounded by peaks (another 2 hours). Spend the afternoon hiking through the forested trails and visiting the ancient village. Zhagana is often called the “Tibetan Eden” for its untouched beauty. Spend the night in a local guesthouse at the foot of the mountains, where you can enjoy local food and stargazing in a peaceful setting.
Day 3: Zhagana（扎尕那） → Diebu （迭部）→ Lanzhou（兰州）
Wake up early to catch the sunrise over the mountains. After breakfast, begin your return trip to Lanzhou via Diebu County, with optional stops at scenic spots such as Yeliguan or Baishiya Karst Cave（白石崖） if time allows. The drive back to Lanzhou takes about 6 hours depending on traffic and weather. Return your rental car at the Shenzhou Zuche location and conclude your journey.
Experience the spiritual heart of Tibetan culture and the untouched beauty of Gannan through a scenic, self-guided road trip filled with monasteries, mountain villages, and breathtaking landscapes.
